Tuesday, 19 April 2016

Risk Assessment

Risk assessments are essential when working, creating an event or doing a photography shoot. The responsibility lies within the owner of the company, and they can be prosecuted if they don't have safe working practises. The reason why risk assessments are carried out is to identify the risk and then put in place controls to minimise risks. E.g. if you have a trailing cable, you should put a mat over it and tape it down. In this country, the health and safety at work act was created in 1974, and now it has been updated in 2015.

Traditional Photographic Processes

Negatives - A negative effect is when a bright proportion of an area becomes very dark, and the dark areas become light.

Enlarger - An enlarger has a lens which allows for the negative to be projected onto the photographic paper. You can also increase the distance from the enlarger to the paper, so that you can create really large prints.

Developer - A photograph developer is a chemical which reacts to the areas of the light sensitive paper so that an image appears.

Stop - In photography, stop simply means increasing the exposure by 1 to allow more light inside the camera. For example, photographers use 'stop' to create 3 separate (or more) images, comparing previous shots that the photographer has taken.

Fixer - Fixer is a chemical which fixes the photographic images to the paper.

Printing - There are several types of photographic paper e.g. gloss (that has a shiny finish) matte (which has a dull non reflective finish) and pearl (which is between matte and gloss).

Thursday, 14 April 2016

Adobe Photoshop - goat WWE

The key tools I used to execute this picture is quick and simple. Firstly, I clicked onto the pen tool to mark every area of the picture to give a accurate cut. After that, I clicked onto the mask option to clear the unwanted background, leaving only the selected area. I then opened another document to add the body of the goats head and repeated the steps. Lastly, I pressed cmd - T to adjust the sizing of the picture to match the head and body.


This is the layers I used during this photoshop session.


moodboard

Moodboard - Architecture  

Thursday, 24 March 2016

Large depth of field

How large depth of field works




Large depth of field is clever photography technique used in most of everyday pictures. Large of depth of field is when the background of an image is

Framing Technique

Framing Technique




Framing shots is a very interesting camera technique. This is where the camera takes a picture through an object to capture the subject of the picture.

1. giving the photo context (for example framing a scene with an archway can tell you something about the place you are by the architecture of the archway or including some foliage in the foreground of a shot can convey a sense of being out in nature).
2. giving images a sense of depth and layers (in essence framing a shot generally puts something in the foreground which adds an extra dimension to the shot).
3. leading the eye towards your main focal point (some ‘frames’ can draw your photo’s viewer into the picture just by their shape). Some also believe that a frame can not only draw the eye into a picture but that it keeps it there longer, giving a barrier between your subject and the outside of the shot.
4. intriguing your viewer. Sometimes it’s what you can’t see in an image that draws you into it as much as (if not more than) what you can see in the picture. Clever framing that leaves those viewing your image wondering a little or imagining what is behind your frame can be quite effective (get it wrong and it can also be quite annoying).

Shallow depth of field

How shallow depth of field works




Shallow depth of field is a camera technique where the background gets blurred out whilst the depth of area is at its sharpest. As you can see here, I've taken some pictures that includes shallow depth of field.

Here is a step by step guide on how to achieve a shallow depth of field:

1.) Make sure you set your camera to the M setting (Manual)
2.) The aperture settings must be very low (F/4 - F/7)
3.) The shutter speed needs to be on a low setting as well (1/20 - 1/30)